Manaslu Circuit Trek - Day 1: Machhakhola to Jagat

I CONTINUED FROM HERE: Manaslu Circuit Trek - Day0: Kathmandu to Machhakhola

Day 1: Trek from Machhakhola (930m/3051ft) to Jagat (1340m/4396ft) - 19km/6-7H

7-May-2026

I woke up at around 5:30 AM and took a cold shower. The guesthouse was supposed to have hot water, but none reached our bathroom, at least. Fortunately, the weather was pleasant, and the cold shower did not bother me much. After breakfast, we began our trek at 7:45 AM. Along the way, we spotted a yellow-throated marten quickly dart across the trail.

We stopped at a hot spring where Ward decided to take a dip. Most of the trail so far followed a jeep track. Soon, there may be a road all the way up to Jagat, and people might simply begin their trek from there instead.

For lunch, we stopped at a small teahouse along the way, where dal bhat was served. We rested for a while before resuming our walk.

I was obviously slower than the others, usually trailing them by about five minutes. During the last stretch, KP walked with me, and we discussed Nepali and Indian politics. He told me that their new prime minister, Balen Shah, was particularly skilled at controlling the narrative through social media. According to him, both the Communist Party and the Nepali Congress had lost much of their influence. I wondered how healthy it was for a democracy when the opposition became so weak. I refrained from commenting much, as KP seemed genuinely excited about the changes taking place and hopeful that his country would progress. I hope so too. We once had a similar sense of optimism about political change, only to later realise that much of it was built on post-truth narratives and false promises.

We also discussed the royal family massacre that shocked Nepal in 2001, when Crown Prince Dipendra killed most members of the royal family. I remember being deeply affected by the news despite being so far away from Nepal.

Our conversation turned to the devastating earthquake of 2015. KP told me about his brother, who was in a remote village in the Manaslu region at the time. Although he survived, one of his friends lost his life.

The last stretch of the trek was a bit challenging. In some places, the trail was narrow, with loose gravel and steep drops along the edge of a cliff. I was alone for this section and found myself wondering what would happen if I slipped and fell. Would anyone be able to find me? The final climb up to Jagat was steep and exhausting.

We reached Jagat at around 2:45 PM. While the others headed to a nearby waterfall for a swim, I freshened up. Later, I walked to the waterfall myself and spent some time sitting there and sketching. On the way, I met Bimal, a young businessman from Kathmandu who was trekking the circuit on his own.

One of the best things about exploring rural areas is meeting ordinary people and seeing how a country truly functions. Jagat is a small village with just two streets, a handful of houses, a police station, and a residential school. Trekkers on the Manaslu Circuit must register here and present their permits before continuing. Since the trail passes close to the Tibetan border, the region is classified as restricted, and foreign trekkers are required to be accompanied by a licensed local guide.

A local policeman, noticing that I was Indian, struck up a long conversation about Nepali politics, places to visit, and his own travels in India. He seemed genuinely kind and eager to talk. He recommended that I visit Chitwan National Park to see rhinos and tigers. The people of Nepal are genuinely warm—their kindness feels natural and unpretentious, balanced by a quiet humility.

Flavie, Gilou, and I also visited the residential school in the village. Children as young as five studied there. Many came from neighbouring villages and stayed at the school during the term. Classes continued until 6 PM, which surprised me.

While Ward and Gilou shared a room, Flavie, Antonio, and I each got a room to ourselves. It was certainly more comfortable than sharing. That evening, I had momos for dinner. They were delicious, though the portion was a bit too large for one person. 

Many trekking companies offer packages where meals are not included. At first glance, these packages appear much cheaper. In reality, however, guesthouses along the trail charge fairly high prices for food and other services. A plate of fried rice can cost around NPR 600, while a simple cup of tea may cost NPR 150 at lower elevations and up to NPR 250 at higher altitudes. Charges for Wi-Fi, hot water, and other amenities also increase as you gain altitude. For this reason, it often makes more sense to choose a package that includes meals.

One pleasant surprise was that almost every village had electricity and mobile connectivity. Looking back, I could probably have managed with a single power bank instead of carrying two heavy ones.

That night, we once again spent a long time chatting about random topics in the dining area. Eventually, when it became clear that the owners wanted to call it a night, we took the hint and headed to bed.

CONTINUED HERE: Manaslu Circuit Trek - Day2: Jagat to Deng