The bus journey from Pondicherry to Mahabalipuram was 3 hours long including a lunch stop for 30 mins. We had Sambhar Sadam for lunch. That seemed like the best available option there.
We were dropped off at the bypass road. There is a stupa of sculpture at this junction that welcomes you to the town. The moment I got off, the town gave me a good feeling. The place appeared simple - less crowded and without much traffic and tourists.
On our way, we stopped at Mukund Nayanar temple. It is well maintained. The shiva carving behind the Shiva linga was impressive.
The security guard there was from Orissa. he asked me if I could speak Hindi. I learnt that he needed help understanding a SMS. He had received a payment of Rs7000 on his bank account. He wanted clarification on who had sent it. I told him that it was from his company. He wondered what that amount was. I asked him if it was his salary. He told me that he had received less amount this time and maybe this was the balance payment.
As a return favour, he told us how to explore Mahabalipuram. He asked us to first go to the main area where the Krishna’s butter ball is. Then, he said that, we must head towards Varaha cave and see other sites up to the lighthouse. Finally, upon exiting near the lighthouse, he asked us to see Arjuna’s Penance. He told us to visit the shore temple at the end as it would be open till 9PM. He also informed us that a single ticket will be valid for all the sites.
I think, he was just happy to see someone speak in Hindi. It is a bit difficult to find people in Tamil Nadu who can or would converse fluently in Hindi. I am sure he will learn Tamil in some time and manage.
We enquired at two lodges and finally picked Hotel Ramakrishna. It is a descent place for a nominal price. Leaving our bags in the room, we headed to the site.
Here are a few interesting things to see in Mahabalipuram or Mamallapuram. The town is named after the celebrated Pallava king from the 7th century called Narasimhavarman I (630-668AD). He was also called "Mamalla", meaning - great wrestler. The rock-cut temples of this town was built during his time.
At 6PM most of the sites close. We then headed to Anand Bhavan, the only decent vegetarian restaurant we could find there. The dosas were okay. Somehow on this trip, I have not enjoyed the food at all. Usually, I am a big fan of the Tamil Nadu cuisine. However, the food in Pondicherry and Mahabalipuram is nothing like the ones I have tasted in Coimbatore, Kumbakonam, Salem or even Krishnagiri. The Sambhar was tasteless. The chutneys mediocre.
I took an online class from 7-8PM and then we headed to the beach. It was peaceful out there. The fishermen were returning to the shore. They used tractors to pull the boat from the sea. I wondered why such a method could not be used in beaches around Surathkal too. I have seen men pull the heavy boats by hand using wooden log as rollers beneath. I am sure people can pool in some money and buy a tractor commonly used for the community.
There were not many people at the beach except a few young boys walking from one end to another. A couple sitting next to a boat had setup a dinner table on the sand. They had a display of water bottle, food and alcohol. This beach was less touristic and peaceful than the rock beach of Pondicherry.
With less disturbance, many stars were visible above us. It is a great feeling to lie on the beach looking up at the night sky filled with stars.
Next morning, we got ready and left our hotel by 6AM and walked towards shore temple. Since Surya is also an early bird, we rarely had issue with such plans. I think this is very important if you are traveling in a group.
The shore temple is impressive with its intricate carvings. Some of the attractions being the Varaha and Mahisha mardini sculpture.
As the sun rose behind the temple, it illuminated the stones by giving it a golden glow. We sat there and soaked in the view for a bit before returning.
We visited Arumigu Sri Sthala Sayana Perumal temple. We saw the beautiful Ranganatha Swamy idol in his ananthashayana pose from very close.
After that, we had breakfast at Mamalla Bhavan. This is perhaps the best option you can find in this town. The food here is good, but not great.
After that, we headed to the five Rathas. Here, each temple or ratha is carved out of a single rock and is dedicated to the five Pandavas and Draupadi. However, the idols inside the temple are that of Shiva or Durga. I wonder what connection it has with the Pandavas.
You will find huge lion and elephant sculptures here. It appeared like an art school back in those times.
We visited the maritime museum that has some interesting facts about the lighthouse and port. Here I read about this trader V O Chidambaram Pillai (5 September 1872 - 18 November 1936). He founded the Swadeshi Steam Navigation Company in 1906 to compete against the monopoly of the British India Steam Navigation Company (BISNC). He launched the first indigenous Indian shipping service between Tuticorin in British India and Colombo in Ceylon. He was later charged with sedition by the British government and sentenced to life imprisonment, and his barrister license was revoked. I wondered how terrible it would have been living under dictatorship. I hope that such a time never fall upon our country again.
We returned to the hotel at around 11am as I had class. Surya left to Pondicherry. I decided to stay an extra night. After my classes, I went back to the archeological sites. The place was filled with couples trying to find some privacy behind bushes and in secluded areas in a tourist place. Unfortunately, I could not climb up the lighthouse as there was some film shooting in progress. The AD’s prevented people from entering the lighthouse.
From here, I walked to the main beach. The street leading up to the sea is packed with shops selling toys, sculptures and jewellery. All shops looked the same. There were people taking horse ride. To beat the crowd, I walked to the rocks behind the shore temple. A few boys were enjoying fishing, two were enjoying a drink, along with some food. I walked around the shore temple from the outside and headed to the other side where my hotel is. There were more rocks by the sea that had carvings.
I had some food at the German Bakery run by Nepalis and serving some baked items but also Indian and Chinese dishes. After taking a few more classes, I headed back to the beach and relaxed there.
The street leading to the beach from my hotel is filled with shops selling sculptures and shoes. Some foreigners were taking sculpting classes from local artists. Some shops made leather sandals for the measurements you provide. I had dinner at Madras Chronicles. This is a fancy place that serves continental food. I went back to the beach and sat there for some time before retiring for the day.
In the morning, I checked out at around 7am. As directed by the staff at the reception, I headed to the bus station and took a bus to Chengalpattu.
As the bus took the village route, it kept filling up quickly. The bus was packed with young school girls, all with identical braids. The loose end of their braid was taken up and tide at the top with a pink ribbon. The ribbon was tied in an order to make it resemble like a flower. Almost everyone had the same style. The boys preferred to assemble at the footboard. They would get off the bus stop and then climb it running as the bus moved.
I had my breakfast in Chengalpattu. The taste was getting better now. Here, I took bus number 212 to Kanchipuram.
At Kanchipuram, I bought some sweets - sweet somas and boarded a bus to Vellore. There are direct buses from here to Bangalore. But I chose to break my travel.
At vellore, I had my lunch - Sambhar Sadam. Now the food tasted great - like typical Tamil Nadu food. In the evening when I reached Bangalore, I was welcomed by traffic jams, long signals and pollution.
This trip was a good beginner to what is to follow. I wanted to see how I could club travel and work and I think it’s amazing. So, I am taking a short break before heading back to Tamil Nadu again soon!
Comments
Post a Comment
Your thoughts are valuable and encouraging! So, please leave back a comment.