Bali to Java via Gilimanuk

CONTINUED FROM HERE: Denpasar

Backpacking Indonesia: Day 008 (21 -April-2025)

Hopping islands

I got ready and decided to step out early. Whenever I am not sure of how the travel is going to be and how long it might take, I always start early. I ordered for breakfast and Putri made me tasty Vegetarian fried rice. While I was eating, she warned me- "As soon as you enter the bus station, some men will come running towards you. Tell them that you already have a ticket. Then, head directly to the ticket counter and enquire about the bus to Gilimanuk." 

I thanked her and left on a Grab car to the bus station that was only 2km away. From Terminal Ubung only local buses ply to Gilimanuk. There is apparently another bus station in Denpasar from where you can book executive buses. But this was perfect for me who seeks to travel like a local. 

As soon as I reached there, as Putri had warned, a few people approached me offering for help. As instructed, I told them that I had a ticket and they moved away. I went and enquired about the bus to Gilimanuk and was appropriately directed to one. I placed my bag next to the driver seat and sat in the first row. I packed some local snacks for lunch and waited for the bus to be full. 

In about 30 minutes the bus was full and we began our journey. By then, the pathway between the seats was filled with luggages. There were bags almost everywhere. Like in Indian small towns and villages, people sent packages. The driver would drop it off at the designated location where someone would come to pick it up. 

I reached Gilimanuk at 12:50 AM after a ride of 3 hours and 40 minutes. The bus driver stopped next to a ferry ticket counter and asked me to buy my ticket there. The Main Street leading up to the harbour is filled with ticket booths. Actually, it is easy to book an online ticket through Ferizy. But since I had not done that, I had to do that in one of the many ticket counters run by locals. However, they charge 7.4K IDR commission for a 10.6K IDR ticket to Ketapang. 

After making a booking and collecting a receipt, I walked to the harbour entrance. I had to scan the barcode on my receipt at the entry point and get a printed ticket. I entered the station and headed to the ferry that was already waiting for us. The ferry was a bit too luxurious for a short trip of 40 minutes. It had a pantry, lounges and people offering foot massage service.

This journey from Bali to Java worked out smoothly than I had expected. Until you set out on such unexpected trails, you cannot fully imagine how it might be. At such times, I ask myself - “How do the locals travel? There must be an easy way to travel from Bali to Java.” This question and the consequent search for options is what makes things so interesting. This is the backpacker spirit that I often seek in my travels. That nervousness of not knowing and then the happiness of having discovered something new is what makes me travel in this fashion. 

After a 40min ferry ride, I reached Ketapang in Java island. It was surprising to note that the island was in a different time zone. They were an hour behind Bali.

My hostel, Ijen backpackers is located at a walkable distance from the harbour. The staff at the front desk helped me plan my Ijen tour. I figured out that booking the tour with them and doing it with hostel mates would be better. I had originally booked two days at this place considering the uncertaininty on how I was to book the trek. But since I booked the trek for same night, I decided to checkout the next morning and head to Probolinggo. The staff was kind enough to cancel my booking for the second night and return my money. They also guided me to the railway station which was close by. I went there to book my train ticket to Probolinggo. The lady at the counter booked the ticket online and asked me to pay the money at the nearest indomart within 20 minutes. I did that and got the receipt printed at the station. They have kiosks to print tickets once you have booked them online. The railway stations are modern and have the latest amenities. 

As part of the trek, I had to get a medical certificate done from a near by clinic. The hostel staff guided me to one where I got my certificate without any checkup for IDR 50K. This is a redundant formality to make some extra money. 

After that, I visited a restaurant nearby which served vegetarian food. Here, I met Chicko. Chicko told me that he could make me a vegetarian lalpan. He told me that he would make me Sambal Terasi sauce without shrimp paste. This sauce is made with lots of chilly. "Generally they add 3 chillies. I add more. That is my secret", Chicko said while placing the dish on my table. In fact it was so spicy that my tongue burnt and my eyes welled up with every bite. I sipped on the orange juice to sooth my burning tongue and when that got over I bit on the ice cubes. But it was tasty and so, teary-eyed, I finished the plate. 

Before leaving, I had a long conversation with Chicko (whose actual name is Herman). He hails from Sumatra. He is probably as old as me or maybe a bit older. But he looked almost ten years younger. We spoke about Hindi films and movie stars of our time. We both seemed to be a fan of actress Kajol. "Indian women are beautiful", he said. I nodded my head in agreement. He quickly added - "So are Indonesian women." I agreed to that too. He then chose to continue the conversation and tell me his life's story. 

He used to work in Bali before. There, he met an Australian woman and fell in love with her. He left his first wife and his children and moved to Australia. His new wife, he says, was a spy, working for the Government. He told me that he stayed in Australia for a few years. He did not tell this openly, but with his speech I understood that he was not happy in that marriage. "She was very rigid. She did not value emotions." He told me.

They separated after a few years and his stay permit was not extended. So, he came back to Indonesia. As per the islamic law, he could reunite with his first wife after 4 years of separation. So, now he lives with his first wife and their two children. The restaurant is owned by his sister and she had to visit Germany for some reason. So, he was taking care of the place while she was gone. He hopes to go back to Australia and work there. I asked him if he likes the life there. He answered -  "I want to make more money." 

Some friends of his from Australia were visiting him next week and he was excited about it. He hopes to find some help through them for his desired relocation. I wasn’t sure why he disclosed all this to me. He probably felt the need to share all of it with some stranger whom he shall never meet again; who would not judge him and even if he did, it did not matter. 

Back in the dorm, I met Stanley. He is a jovial young man from Holland. We spoke a bit about our travels and India. He told me that he was doing the Ijen trek on his own. He was planning on renting a scooter and ride there. If I had met him earlier, I would have probably done the same. I told him that he had to get the medical certificate done. To which he replied - "It's a scam. I read in some forum that nobody asks for it."

Three of my students in Bangalore were writing DELF A1 exam the next day. I had to make audio calls with them and help them prepare for the oral exam. After that, I played a little bit with the kitten in the hostel. This cute little kitten resembled my Simba aka Pitte. I called him Java pitte. The hostel had 8 cats in total.

After playing with Java pitte, I decided to sleep until midnight. I had to be ready by 1AM for the trek. 

To be Continued...