Sapa | Vietnam

I Continue From Here  - Hanoi

Backpacking Vietnam: Day 003 and 004 (25,26 July 2019)

You Okay?

I took an early morning sleeper bus to Sapa.  The bus was super comfortable and is the best way to go around the country. The bus stopped at a local roadside stall for food but I could not eat anything there as almost all dishes available there were meat based. I had some snacks.  

By 1:30PM, I reached Sapa. As soon as you get off the bus in Sapa local Hmong tribal women approach you and ask if you wanted to stay at their place. You could do that for a reasonable price and an authentic experience. I had booked a stay at a homestay run by a Hmong tribe - Mama Bau. Her husband came on his bike to pick me up. 

Mama Bau homestay is located in a small village called Lao Chai which is around 18km (45mins) from Sapa town. With my huge backpack on my back, we rode downhill on a bike over an unpaved road. The ride was bumpy but I got there in one piece. 

At the homestay, I met Mama Bau, a woman in her mid 40’s with a prominent baby bump hinting a pregnancy. Yet, she was smiling and running around greeting the hosts, speaking to them and making sure everything was being taken care of. I was alloted a bed in their attic. The beds were layed on the floor and gave the place a homely look. Infact, it was a house - that of Mama Bau. I learnt later that mama bar had four children and her eldest daughter and she both were pregnant. 

After checking in, I took a walk to explore Lao chai village. I stopped to watch women knit and dye their clothes in indigo. Local Hmong women selling pouches and bags made of hemp fabric approached me with a wide grin. I bought one for a tourist price. The view from the hills were absolutely stunning. 

There were hemp plants everywhere as it is used to smoke and make garment. Sapa is popular for its terraced paddy fields. The greenary I was surrounded by made me feel happy. It is undoubtdly one of the most beautifull villages i have ever seen. 

I visited a local church where some volontiers from Ho Chi Minh city had come to entertain children with some games and offer them some goodies. 

Back at the hostel, I met an American girl at the common area. We had some interesting discussion about racism in America. The family dinner I had at Mama Bau was elaborate and very tasty. She had prepared several vegetarian dishes too. 

During dinner, I met a young European traveller who had just finished Ha Giang loop. He extoled about the incredible experience he had had on the bike loop. He gave me the necessary details about the hostel he had stayed in. Since, I had no plans on where I would go next, I instantly decided to head there. Mama Bau helped me book the bus to Ha Giang and I booked the hostel. 

Next morning, after breakfast at around 8:30AM, I left home with the teenage son and daughter of Mama Bau. They were my guide for a local Sapa trek I had booked with them. 

We passed through small villages, visited the terraced paddy and corn fields, crossed several waterfalls, and stopped at a few view points. The clouds covered and uncovered the surronding hills. Locals were harvesting corn. Corn was left to dry in the front yard. Among vegetables, Chow-Chow (Chayote sqaush) and pumpkin were ubiquitous. 

On my way, I saw two little kids - a boy and perhaps his sister walk back home from school. They had bought an ice cube which was packed in a plastic cover. The two took turns to take a sip from the plastic cover and taste a little of the cold melting water. The joy in little things reminded my own childhood and made me happy. 

We had lunch at a small village on the way. I was provided omelette and fried rice with some vegetables. The place where we had our lunch had a spectacular view of the hills. 

Some part of the trail was covered in sludge and therefore it was slippery. A Hmong lady, walking with her cane basket on her back, occasionally turned around and checked with me- “you okay?”. 

I was perfectly fine - more than happy to be on this muddy trail surrounded with pristine nature. 

After a long walk around the hills, we reached a waterfall. But the waterfall seemed a bit crowded and since I was already drenched due to frequent drizzles, I chose to skip the waterfall and decided to continue back to the homestay. 

We retunred to Mama Bau’s place by 4PM. It was a long but interesting trek. I had thoroughly enjoyed it. In the evening, sitting at the common area, enjoying the view in front of me, I sketched the pagoda from Hanoi.

At night, I tried the Bong at Mama Bau’s place. She taught me how to use it. She brought me two containers and said - Which one do you want to smoke - hemp or tobacco? Initially, I struggled to smoke but later, I got a hang of it. 

After dinner, I went straight to bed. I was extremely tired from the walk and so I must have snored a little. 

Next morning, I had breakfast (Banana pancake) and bid farewell to Mama Bau. Her husband dropped me on the bike to Sapa town from where I were to catch my mini bus to Ha Giang. 

I left with a very good impression of Mama Bau. She ran the entire show there. Her husband mostly remained absent. He was only excited about picking me or dropping me off to town because that would fetch him a good amount of money. He did not care to learn English either like Mama Bau or her young children. The entire arrangement at the house was taken care of by the lady. Which later, I noticed was the case in most places in the country. 

Having enjoyed the beautiful views in Sapa, I eagerly awaited my next adventure - A bike loop around the northern part of Vietnam. 

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