Hampta Pass Trek - Day 03

CONTINUED FROM : Hampta Pass Trek - Day 02

Day 03: 04-Oct-2022

Route: Balu Ka Ghera (3678 m/12000 ft) To Shia Goru (3810m / 12500 ft) Via Hampta Pass (4270 m/14010 ft)

Distance: 9km (7H)


At dawn, the view from the campsite was spectacular. Though the water was freezing cold, I had to freshen-up. That is a habit, difficult for me to get rid of. 

When the other woke up they told me that the rats had visited some of the tents last night. Shreyas's bag was bitten and Swathi felt a rat run past her head. I however, had a good sleep last night. So, I don’t know if any of the rats had payed me a visit. Even if they had, they did not leave back any obvious evidences behind. 


Shreyas had a bad headache as he was unable to sleep all night. The guides normally avoid recommending Diamox tablet but they requested him to take one if the condition worsened. Diamox tablets can deal with the Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).


We were served Poha and Daliya for breakfast. I love the Daliya prepared in the mountains. It is basically wheat porridge. 


We left our campsite at 8:40 AM. The views only got better as we climbed higher. But the trek also got harder. The trail on the third day is the only toughest part of the Hampta pass trek. There is an altitude gain of 2000 ft and a steep descent. It is this day that makes it a moderate level trek rather than an easy trek. 

After gaining some altitude, we reached a flat area, surrounded by snow. The young trekkers with me, decided to take a break and play with the snow. They made snow balls and threw at each other and captured some videos for Instagram reels. Sometimes, it is important to feel younger and live the moment. As we age, we tend to tend to ignore the joy in simpler moments of life. We often disregard them as childishness. My students at school teach me how one must never let go of their child-like qualities – of being curious, of being excited and enthusiastic about everything and to be non-judgemental. 


After passing this flat area, we began another steep ascent. It was getting difficult at times but that is what makes it more interesting and puts your stamina to a test. 

The next stretch of the trek involved a ridge walk. That was something very exciting. We could see Pir Panjal range on one side. 

We stopped for lunch at around 12:30 PM. I picked a good spot, overlooking this mountain and sat there for a long time - enjoying the view, more than the dry chapatis packed for lunch. 

The final climb got us to Hampta pass (4270 m/14010 ft) at around 2PM. I must tell you that I was tired by the time I reached Hampta pass. My bags were heavy and the climb arduous. But, that’s what I seek. Easy treks are no fun. Challenges like these are what motivates me to venture into the Himalayas. 

We spent a good amount of time at Hampta pass. I wondered how the ancient traders found this route to connect with the people on the other side of the mountains. Life would have been interesting back then. 


From Hampta pass, you can see Mt. Indrasan (6221 m/20410ft) and Mt Deo Tibba (5985 m/ 19636 ft). According to the locals, whenever Lord Indra visits earth, he resides on Mt. Indrasan. And the other gods, assemble at the dome-shaped Deo Tibba, in front of it.

On the other side of Hampta pass is the Chandrabaga range. The descent to Chandra valley of Lahaul is a bit difficult as the trail is filled with rocks. The trail was also slippery due to the drizzle. The view on this side of the pass is also very different. From the meadows of Kullu valley, you now reach the deserts of Lahual and Spiti valley. 


During our descent, it began to snow. We had to pull out our ponchos from the bag. As it snowed, I walked non-stop until I reached Shia Goru campsite that was visible from a distance. But it wasn't as close as it appeared. A long walk finally got me there. I entered my tent and cleaned up. By the time I had reached the tent, it began to snow heavily. I often pack my things well, so thankfully, none of my clothes got wet. The poncho had yet again saved me from trouble. I had made it to the campsite by 4:10 PM. 

There was calm after the storm. The sky began to clear. We watched the reflection of the sun rays on the snow-capped mountains. It was a beautiful sight. Tasty samosas and tea were served. 

As the cold was unbearable, we assembled at the dining tent and played Uno. One of the trekkers, Samar had developed a bad headache. Samar and his friends Tarun and Yash hail from Delhi.

A couple, perhaps from Europe, were trekking on their own. They had set up their tent next to one of our tents. It was funny because, they had pitched their tent so close to our tent that there was only a few inches of gap. Which I thought was weird. If this was their country, they would have objected such proximity. But, in India, they think that is fine. 

Dinner was served at 8PM. The food was as usual, grand. However, it is better to limit your food intake. The last thing you want during a trek is a bad stomach. But there is one thing I have noticed. I am always at my best health in the mountains. Of course, there are initial inconveniences until you acclimatise, but then on, everything feels perfect. 

The body was so tired by that long strenuous walk that I slept very well that night as well.  

CONTINUED HERE: Hampta Pass Trek - Day 04


  1. Thanks for sharing these breathtaking photos. You must a great devotee of Lord Ganesha. Per Hindu mythology, Lord Ganesha rides a rat to assist people in resolving their troubles. No wonder these rats did not bother you.

    1. Thank you SG... Hahaha, I am an atheist, perhaps the rats were confused.

    2. Thanks for your reply. I immediately thought of Poet Kannadasan lines. He wrote: I was an atheist and He was not afraid of me. I became a believer and I could not find Him.


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