Agumbe & Theerthahalli - 01

Buddy Subbu wants to build a bicycle out of cane and somehow he finds out that best canes are available at the hillocks of Agumbe; his brother's friend says, “Welcome to my hometown, my hotel and my uncle who is a cane dealer.” So everything fell in place very quickly and all of a sudden it was planned to travel to Agumbe. An invitation to a place like this makes it very difficult for me to say "No” so I decide to grab some canes for me as well, perhaps to build frames for my paintings. So very unexpectedly decided, we left Bangalore last weekend (19th) to Agumbe.

Apart from occasional sobbing of backseat lovers and a college student’s crapy, noisy message alert that kept beeping every minute, the drive was quite otherwise. Sudden breaks between some short and nice naps got us to Theerthahalli at dawn. After a plate of Mangalore Buns with tea and me almost being left off by the bus while attending natures call (Thanks to Subbu for shouting out at the driver to stop :-)); we finally reach Agumbe which seemed to be in deep dilema of whether or not to wake up.

Lazy Morning For Agumbe folks but not for us!
Diagonally opposite to the main bus stand and exactly opposite to the police check post is the only hotel in town- Mallya Residency, owned by a friend of Subbu’s Brother. We checked in and took very less time to freshen-up considering the excitement that we were in. After a not so good breakfast at the hotel near bus stand and a walk around the town, the hotel in charge dropped us near the trail to Onnake-Abbe falls. We were accompanied by four other Orrisa origin Bangaloreans who were so eager to click pictures that we only saw them twice during the trek. The trail is about 4kms into deep jungles and at a point seemed like a never ending path. Wood peckers and other birds made scary sounds, snakes and other reptiles crossed our path and we heard an animal run, which Subbu suspects, is a wild pig and I have no other better guess as I barely saw anything.

But every pain is worth some treasure, the path all of a sudden ends at a 200ft pit with an amazing sight. I must say that this is one among the best waterfalls I have ever been to. We relaxed there for a while enjoying the sound of nature until the 4 guys following us blended with it to disharmonize.

We returned back and on our way met a middle aged foreigner carrying two bags and a laptop stopping to ask – “So is there another gate at that end?” :-) “No Mam, you will witness something better than a freeway entry and exit; a waterfall awaits at the other end.”

We walked back to the hotel and met Mallya uncle, who was a little drunk but was conscious enough to scold his helper (Almost his age, around 60’s) for every sentence that he talked or did not. When asked for cane, he said – “you can get canes, in Mysore, Bangladesh, Malaysia and Bangalore’s russle market.” And then he got on to recollect the location of some famous dealer in Mysore. He said – it’s near a garden. I gave up after mentioning – Brindavan, but Subbu has more knowledge of Mysore with the advantage of having studied there so he might have mentioned all the gardens in Mysore but none matched the memory of the old man. He next got on to criticize Bangalore on how the population and traffic has spoilt it but one thing he liked the most is the food though expensive, he says is – “Taaaaassstefull.” His occasional use of English words made it clear that he had had some formal education and that got confirmed when the hotel in-charge had to write an address on a parcel and he asked Mallya uncle – “How do you spell- Director?” I realized that uncle was a hero in this town. I had recently finished reading Shivarama Karanth’s – “Marrali Mannige” an amazing story of three generations and their connection with their birth place. One of the generations seemed obsessed in learning English and superiority of its usage. So I was seeing something in real but uncle did not meet my expectations, he spelled – “D…i…r….e….t….c….o….r”; perhaps it was the drink. :-) That was corrected by Subbu but then there was another word to be spelled – “Palace”. Before we could start, uncle began again…”F….a….” we had to supersede him.

So being scared that he would send us back to Bangalore’s Russle market or some garden of Mysore, I asked if we could at least take some canes and he quickly responded with a nod and we walked to a store room at the backyard of his house where we choose some good canes; thick one’s for the bicycle and thin one’s for my frame. During this, uncle kept scolding the helper on his foolishness and idiotic behaviors, most of which seemed irrelevant and only a way to display his superiority and status or expression conveying the frustration of the old man’s loneliness, whose sons where in either US or Bangalore.

We got a glimpse of the cane creeper at his house. We thanked them all, had a quick meal at Kamath Hotel and boarded a bus to Theerthahalli and then to Kuppalli, birthplace of legendary Kannada poet/novelist Kuvempu.

Continued Here -  Agumbe & Theerthahalli - 02

Photo Credits to Subbu...


  1. Wow! Your travelogues are a treat! Awesome!

  2. Very nice travelogue, I dont know such place existed within short travel from bangalore, Now that I am shifting to it, I would mark this place to check it out.

    Cool pictures! and I totally admire the way you read the frustation of tht uncle on the helper. It does makes sense.
    Picture of ur photo frame please.

    And thanks for visiting me :P

  3. Rakesh - Thanks.

    Srivats - Good to know you are shifting to Bangalore...Will share the picture of the frame when i have that ready.

  4. Did you see any king cobras? That place is thriving.
    Nice write up.

  5. what a cute uncle lol
    thank you very much for brightening up my day!
    sooo happy to see you are having a wonderful trip! take care ajeya chan...

  6. Love that pic of dogs!!
    makes me smile...

  7. Kish- Nope...luckily not. :-)

    Niki - Thanks...Good to see you back.

  8. Great article, I enjoyed your description of the uncle the most as it depicts reality of life after aging: "kept scolding the helper.. as expression conveying the frustration of the old man’s loneliness."

    PS. Remember to post some pics of the bicycle and ur picture frames as they are complete!

  9. Edmund - Uncle indeed is an interesting character. :-) Will post the pictures when they are done.

  10. I like the way you narrate it...simply as is. Waiting for part 2. Wishing you a Happy Holi Ajeya.

  11. Loved the writeup, waiting for the next part and the pics of the bicycle and the frame. i have seen some similar Uncles and Mallya uncle reminds of all of them :)

  12. uncle's pic!? lololol

  13. Celina - Thanks

    Anupama - Oh Mnagalore one could find plenty of such uncles. :-)

    Niki - LOL i missed that, i should have taken a picture of him. anyway i hope my writing creates some image in your mind. :-)


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