Sandakan | Borneo | Malaysia

I Continue From Here: Mount Kinabalu trek Day 02 | Borneo | Malaysia

Sandakan: A Little Closer to Home

12,13,14 September 2026

On the morning of the 12th, when I stepped into the common area, I met a young man from England who was leaving for the Mount Kinabalu trek. I shared all the details I could, answering his questions about the cold, clothing, and facilities. He seemed much more relaxed after our conversation.

I took a Grab taxi to the bus station. I had booked a ticket from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan through the Easybook app, and the bus was already waiting at the platform when I arrived. The journey took almost the entire day, but it was an interesting one. I passed Mount Kinabalu once again before continuing into the plains.

I noticed that large stretches of forest were being cleared and converted into Date palm plantations, which was disappointing. On the bus, they played a Malay film (Or maybe Indonesian). All I could see were fights and violence. There was barely a pause between one action scene and the next. The violence was graphic, with plenty of bloodshed and even scenes of throats being slit. They played three Malay films during the journey, and all seemed to follow the same formula.

The Sandakan bus station was about five kilometres from the town centre, so I booked a Grab taxi. My hostel was close to the sea, in what seemed to be one of the busiest parts of town. The woman driving the taxi was Muslim but did not wear a hijab. I quickly noticed the cultural differences between Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo. Life here seemed more laid-back, and the atmosphere felt more open.

At AeCotel Mingle Hotel, I met the caretaker, Naseer, a middle-aged man who spoke at length about Indian film stars such as Shah Rukh Khan and Rajinikanth. He seemed like a nice fellow. I was already beginning to like this part of Malaysia. The people I met seemed modest and kind, and they were happy to engage with travellers.

A street fair was being set up along the road where my hostel was located. I was hungry and began looking for a good restaurant serving vegetarian food, which proved to be a challenge. Eventually, I found Kahawa Heritage Cafe and Bistro. The server kindly prepared kway teow without oyster sauce or fish sauce, allowing me to finally taste the dish. I also tried Dadih, a silk like milk-based pudding. 

I bought some fruits on the way back - Rambutan and Langsat. 

I then walked to a nearby mall, where a pet show was taking place. Several domesticated animals were on display, and at the very end was a cat competition in progress. The owners proudly presented their cats, which were assessed by a judge on the quality of their fur, fitness, and alertness. The judge moved a feathered stick around to see whether the cats would try to catch it. Some enthusiastically joined in, while others couldn't have cared less and simply ignored him. They obviously scored poorly! It was a fun event to watch. At the end, the judge spoke about each cat and gave his assessment.

The next morning, for breakfast, I went to Fatima Restoran, located behind my hotel. I was welcomed by a kind gentleman with a peaceful face and a gentle smile that never seemed to leave him. He wore a neatly pressed floral shirt and formal trousers. His features looked distinctly Malaysian, and he spoke softly in surprisingly good English.

When I told him I was vegetarian, he suggested that I try the vegetable murtabak. I took his advice, and it was delicious. When I asked about the restaurant's opening hours, he told me it was open until 6 p.m. I made a mental note to return for an early dinner.

I then walked to the minibus station. As it turned out, the person I had asked about the bus to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre was the driver himself! On the bus, I met an Italian couple who were heading there too. The man had travelled to India as well.

There are feeding sessions for the orangutans at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. I thoroughly enjoyed watching a mother orangutan climb up the ramp to collect and eat the fruit being offered. Her little one hung from a rope, behaving playfully and entertaining the visitors, while the mother was busy trying to open a coconut.

She neatly ripped off the coir with her teeth and tried to make a hole with her nails. After struggling for a while, she seemed to decide that it would be easier to strike the coconut against the ground and crack it open. Watching her was like witnessing a live demonstration of how humans might have discovered how to open coconuts in the first place.

On the way back, I spotted a viper hanging from a branch very close to the walkway. I would probably have walked right past it had other visitors not noticed it and pointed it out.

Next to the orangutan rehabilitation centre is the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. The ticket was a little expensive at RM50, but it was interesting to see so many sun bears. When they were fed oranges, some came close to the viewing deck. Their distinctive V-shaped chest markings were clearly visible as they stood up, hoping for more oranges.

I then walked another 2.5 kilometres to the Rainforest Discovery Centre. On the way, I stopped at a stall run by a friendly local who was selling tender coconuts. The water had a distinctive flavour, almost reminiscent of pandan leaves. When I asked him about it, he explained that they were a hybrid variety known as pandan coconuts.

At the Rainforest Discovery Centre, I walked along the elevated treetop walkway built through the forest. It was an impressive structure. Although I didn't spot any hornbills or orangutans, as I had hoped, the walk itself was exhilarating. It took me through dense forest, surrounded by the sounds of cicadas, other insects, and birds.

Ironically, I spotted three hornbills in the parking lot! They were gorgeous.

I was too lazy to wait for the bus, so I booked a Grab back to Sandakan. When the driver learnt that I was Indian, he began playing Bollywood mashups. As I got out near Fatima Restoran, I thanked him for the music. He told me that he listened to Indian music all the time and loved it. Honestly, I was falling in love with the people of Sabah. They seemed particularly warm and welcoming.

The gentleman at Fatima Restoran was happy to see me again. This time, I had kaya toast, parotta, and kitchai, a Malay drink made with gooseberry and lime juice.

I walked to the mall and then returned to the hostel. My original plan had been to spend the following day on a tour of the Kinabatangan River. However, the tour was quite expensive. Having already seen orangutans and hornbills, I felt more than satisfied with my wildlife encounters. I wasn't particularly keen on another river safari just to spot more animals, and the pictures I had seen of the place didn't appeal to me all that much either. So I changed my plans and decided to stay in Sandakan, explore the town, and perhaps take things a little more slowly.

The following morning, after another good breakfast at Fatima Restoran, I set out on the Sandakan Heritage Trail. I walked past the famous Hundred Steps and eventually reached the former home of Agnes Keith. It was fascinating to read about her experiences in Sabah and Libya. I wanted to buy her book, but it was rather expensive. It cost at least RM20 more than the price I had seen elsewhere, so I decided to look for it in Kuala Lumpur instead.

I continued to St Michael's and All Angels Church and then visited the Goddess of Mercy Chinese Temple before returning to the town centre. Naturally, I went back to Fatima Restoran for lunch.

The gentleman apologised because the vegetable dhal had run out. Meals here were incredibly affordable. The elaborate meal I had would have cost me no more than RM10. I also enjoyed drinking cold tea in Malaysia. Tea made of condensed milk and served with generous amount of ice cubes felt refreshing in the humid weather. 

In the evening, I stepped out for dessert at Momo Oriental Kitchen, where I tried coconut pudding and mango sticky rice. They had some excellent food options, including plenty for vegetarians.

Later, I watched the sunset by the beach. It was peaceful. In the open space nearby, little children were playing, youngsters were busy filming reels, and families had gathered to enjoy the evening breeze. Travellers sat here and there, blending into the scene.

There might not have been a great deal to do in Sandakan itself, but I had thoroughly enjoyed my time there. Sometimes, a place doesn't need a long list of attractions to leave you with good memories. That was my last evening in Sandakan.

The next morning, I packed my bags and carried them with me to Fatima Restoran for one last meal. The gentleman noticed my luggage and immediately understood that I was leaving. He took my last order and asked me, “Where are you from?”

“India,” I replied. “And you?”

“I am from Kerala.”

I burst out laughing. I had assumed that he and the other staff members were all Malaysians. I had even learnt a few Malay greetings so that I could interact with them more easily.

I asked him, “Nattil evide?” — Where in Kerala?

He launched into a long, animated monologue in Malayalam, and suddenly, Sandakan felt a little closer to home.

Mujeeb chetta was from Alappuzha, Kerala. He had been working in Malaysia on a visa for the past 20 years, returning home every year for two months. The other women working at the restaurant were from Indonesia.

It reminded me of that familiar saying: “You can find a Malayali even on the moon.”

That morning, he served me an extra helping of vegetable dhal. I bid him farewell and took a taxi to the airport.

My flight to Kuala Lumpur was uneventful. I went through immigration again at Sandakan, and the process was smooth. At the Kuala Lumpur airport, I found a nice Mexican restaurant where I had a vegetarian burrito. After that, I boarded a direct bus to Malacca, ready for the next leg of my Malaysian adventure.

To Be Continued...