Manaslu Circuit Trek - Day 7: Samagaun to Samdo

I Continue From Here: Manaslu Circuit Trek - Day 6: Manaslu Base Camp

Day 7: Trek from Samagaun (3.530 m / 11,581 ft) to Samdo (3,865 m / 12,680 ft) via Birendra lake - 9km /4H

13-May-2026

I had requested KP that we start a little later in the morning. After all, we did not have to cover a great distance, and the walk was expected to be relatively easy. He agreed, and it was decided that we would meet for breakfast at 8 AM instead of an hour earlier. My body needed the rest, and I slept until 7 AM that morning. It felt refreshing.

Next to our guest house, construction work was in progress. The labourers had already begun their day. The methods used to build houses here seemed quite primitive. The Manaslu trek is not very crowded at the moment, but that is bound to change. In a few years, more trekkers will arrive, more guest houses will be built, and the trail may gradually lose some of its authenticity.

I was up and ready by 7:30 AM. I went downstairs and ordered a cup of tea. Standing there, sipping tea while gazing at the mesmerising mountain views, was a wonderful experience. I felt bien rétabli.

After breakfast, we began our walk. Our first stop was Birendra Lake. Along the way, we passed a memorial dedicated to the two men who first successfully summited Mt. Manaslu on 9 May 1956—Toshio Imanishi of Japan and Gyalzen Norbu of Nepal—as part of a Japanese expedition.

At the café from where we were to descend towards the lake, there was a sign asking travellers not to swim in it, as the lake is considered sacred by the local villagers. However, KP and the boys were looking forward to a swim. So KP led us to the far end of the lake, away from prying eyes, and everyone jumped into the freezing water. To be part of the team spirit, I joined them, although I cannot swim. Instead of jumping in, I waded a short distance into the water while the others swam. Even that was enough—the water was unbearably cold.

Sitting on a rock afterwards, I found myself reflecting on the idea of sacred places. Nature belongs to everyone. The fact that some people regard a lake, mountain, or forest as sacred does not necessarily give them the right to prevent others from enjoying it. We see similar situations elsewhere. In Sikkim, for example, climbers are not permitted to summit Kangchenjunga from the Indian side because the mountain is considered holy. In the park where I take my morning walks, some people worship certain trees. I suspect they would be offended if I used one of those same trees for support while stretching.

What concerns me is the tendency of some people to become self-appointed custodians of mountains, lakes, trees, plants, or animals simply because they hold religious significance. This can lead to the expectation that others must follow the same beliefs. As long as nature is treated with respect and not damaged, I believe everyone should be free to enjoy it in their own way without imposing their beliefs on others.

The walk to Samdo was comfortable and mostly flat. I enjoyed taking it slowly, soaking in the scenery. Along the way, I spotted several marmots, which promptly disappeared into their burrows whenever I approached.

In Samdo, we stayed in a beautiful guest house with a pleasant sitting area on the top floor that offered magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. KP decided that we would have lunch there.

According to the original itinerary, the following day was supposed to be an acclimatisation day, with a hike towards the Tibetan border. However, because of the poor weather—and because we had already completed the rewarding trek to Manaslu Base Camp the previous day—we decided to alter our plans and head directly to Dharamsala instead.

This change also helped break up what would otherwise have been a demanding 25-kilometre walk on the final day, allowing for a slower and more relaxed descent.

Here, I met Sangameshwar and Manisha from Hyderabad. I struck up a conversation with them, and we quickly got along. They were exceptionally friendly people. Later, all of us played a game of Encore. That evening, Antonio organised a stretching session for everyone.

During dinner, we checked our oxygen saturation levels using an oximeter. I was pleased to see a reading of 95% with a resting heart rate of 75, both reassuringly close to normal.

Manisha was vegetarian by choice, while Sangam was vegan. They told me that after experimenting with a few menu options, they eventually settled on dal bhat for every single meal throughout the trek. Their guide and porter were friendly and cheerful as well.

Apart from them, I had become acquainted with another guide who was leading group of three Israeli boys. He was of Tibetan descent and always greeted me warmly whenever we crossed paths. One day he asked whether I had been to Dharamsala. When I nodded, he immediately followed up with, “Did you see the Dalai Lama?” I sensed that many people of Tibetan origin felt a deep sense of gratitude towards India for providing refuge to their spiritual leader. He recommended me to trek in the Langtang Valley Trek, which he considered one of the finest treks in Nepal.

Apart from the trekkers, the trail is also home to guides and porters who quietly keep the entire journey moving. Every evening, after the trekkers have finished their meals, they gather for dinner of their own and then sit together around the fire, sharing stories and companionship at the end of another long day on the trail.

To Be Continued...