Mount Bromo | Java Island

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Backpacking Indonesia: Day 010 (23 -April-2025)

Brahma and Mahesha

I woke up around 1AM. From the balcony, I could see Franco and his friends were hanging out at the sit-out below. I got ready and went downstairs to meet Franco at the house entrance. His friends bid him farewell and left on their scooters. Mahesh, the driver and Franco quickly changed the number plate of the vehicle. I wondered why they did that. Mahesh and I then drove towards the Cemorolawang village.  

Most people book a home stay at Cemorolawang village, which is located at the foothills of Mt Bromo. Apart from farming, the villagers rely on heavily on tourism. Therefore, the prices are higher. The best option therefore is to stay in Probolinggo and book the tour from there. At the village entry point, there was a guard who asked something to Mahesh. Mahesh answered confidently and he was let in. I connected the dots and realised that the vehicles from outside are not allowed in this village. This could be to restrict tourism benefits to the locals. Even private vehicles have to be parked at the homestay and one has to hire jeeps to get around. 

The total amount for this tour arranged by Franco cost me 650K. You can do it on your own but I think it would be expensive to do so. The entry ticket to this trek is 250K for foreigners. It is mandatory to rent a jeep here and it amounts up to 150K per person.  Then there is transport charges from Prabolinggo. If you stay at Cemorolawang village then you need to arrange the stay and transport to get there and leave. That would however have amounted to same price or more. 

Mahesh parked the vehicle near a homestay and asked me to wait. I was already enjoying the secrecy in this mission. What was to happen next? I awaited curiously. After about 15 minutes, a jeep arrived. I was asked to board that. Mahesh told me that he would be waiting for me at the same place. The jeep drove to another homestay which I learnt later, was owned by the driver. He picked up two young Chinese girls who were staying at his place. We then made our way up a hill. He parked the vehicle at the entrance of the view point and told us that we had to walk up the hill to view sunrise. We were to return by 6AM. The three of us began our walk. The jeep route soon gave way to a flight of stairs up a hill.

The girls stopped to buy some water. It was nice of them to buy an extra bottle for me. They could not speak fluent English but we managed to communicate. I was already carrying a bottle of water so, I politely declined their offer. I noted that the culture of sharing even with strangers is common across Asia. 

The viewpoint was totally empty. I saw a mud trail leading up a near by hill. I could see some flashlights move along the hill. I used google maps and located the King Kong hill view point which was higher up. The narrow trail was steep. Since it was dark, we had to use flashlight from our cellphone to guide us. 

We reached one viewpoint where some visitors had gathered. One of the girls was slow and extremely tired. So, they asked me to continue to the next view point and told me that they would wait for me there. 

At King Kong hill, there were more people gathered. Everyone had picked a suitable spot to view the sunrise. As the landscape became visible, I witnessed a beautiful view of Mt. Bromo and Mt Semeru. It was one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. As we watched, Mt Semeru released volcanic gases. 

I was a bit disappointed with some western travellers. Two French girls sitting next to me were smoking cigarette. There were about 30 to 40 people gathered there. Though it is common to smoke in public in Asia, at least the westerners who are prohibited to do so in their own country due to valid reasons, should know better. Another couple who spoke in a European language I could not easily recognise, began to passionately kiss and embrace each other. I strongly feel that one must respect the local culture and also learn basic decency of not turning public places into a bedroom. Ignoring those little botheration, I enjoyed the spectacular sunrise. 

I walked down to meet the two girls at the viewpoint below. We headed back to the jeep. Next, our driver took us to Mt Bromo crater. The flat ground leading upto the crater is filled with sand and only jeeps and mountain bikes are allowed here.

From the parking lot, we had to walk another 2-3 km. Many locals offer a horse ride till the steps that lead up to the crater. The views were excellent and I enjoyed the walk. 

I was thrilled to watch the crater from such proximity. Bromo is Javanese prounciation of Brahma (Hindu God of creation). It is one of the 130 active volcanos in Indonesia. I sat there for some time until the girls arrived. This trip added more sulphur stench to my jacket. 

After spending a quality time at the ridge of the crater, we headed back to the jeep. The girls were dropped off at their homestay and I was dropped near the Innova. Mahesh was taking a nap when I reached there. He quickly freshened up and we left. We passed the fertile land in which the villagers grow potato, garlic and other vegetables. 

Along the way, I started a conversation with Mahesh. I asked him if he had changed the vehicle number plate due to restriction on outside vehicles. He agreed to me with a loud laugh. As an Indian, it wasn't difficult for me to understand such Jugaads. He did not speak fluent English so, we relied on google translate sometimes. Thus, through the help of technology, I got to know Mahesh a little better. 

Mahesh is a Hindu. He told me that he had studied oceanography. He also worked for a cargo ship and traveled to Sri Lanka once. But since his parents wanted him to stay back in the country, he resigned the job and came back. He tells me that like in India, here too, children live with their parents. He wants to improve his English fluency and travel around the world like me. I told him that he could connect with me and take free English speaking sessions if it interested him. 

It seemed like the Hindus of Bali and Java have a lot of differences. He could not understand some words I had learnt in Bali, including the name of a major festival there. 

There seemed to be a harmony among all religions here. He told me that Muslims drink alcohol too. However, they do not do it publicly. But at home, most of them drink. I also noticed that interfaith marriages are common here. 

Mahesh stopped at a local grocery store and bought some Brazilian cold coffee. He offered me one. I was touched by his kindness and previously, that of the Chinese girl who had offered me a bottle of water. 

At the homestay, I freshened up and got ready to leave. My tour included a breakfast too. Megha got me some bread and omelette, along with hot coffee. Before leaving, I spoke a bit to Franco and Mahesh who were in the sit-out. Franco told me that he was trained under his uncle and aunt (Putri and her husband). He came back to Probolinggo in 2019 and began his homestay. Unfortunately, Covid hit and the business hasn’t picked up since then. 

When my Grab taxi arrived, they came out to the main road to see me off. Their simplicity and kindness made me emotional. I wish I had more time to spend here with the locals but, I had to leave - more exiting trips awaited me during the limited time I had. 

The Grab driver dropped me at the main entrance of the bus station and guided me towards the bus to Malang. I boarded the first bus available. There are normal slow buses and then there are buses with board “Patas”. These are fast or express buses. The bus I was on, waited to be filled up and after some time, headed towards Malang. 

Wherever the bus stopped, locals would come in with a guitar. They played music for a tip. Some of them were really good musicians. 

The bus station in Malang is about 5km from the city centre. So, I got off and booked another Grab taxi. My hostel was on the Main Street. I checked in and enquired about the tour to Tumpak Sewu waterfall. But the hostel had no such tours. They had a tour to Bromo and Ijen instead which they were marketing well. 

While looking for a place to eat, I came across a nice cafe called Critasena Cafe. It was close to a public swimming pool and the tables and chairs were placed all around the open area, even as far as 250m from the kitchen. A lot of youngsters were gathered there. I ordered some food and picked a spot and sat sketching my travel journal. I absolutely loved the ambiance here. 

I walked to a scooter rental place nearby. Along the way, I passed by Malang Monument Square. 

I rented a scooter for 100K IDR and rode it to the hostel and parked it there. Next, I walked to a local shop near by in search of sun glasses. There were many shops selling duplicate versions of branded glasses. But they were not cheap either. So, I refrained from buying any and went to New York bakery and had a huge bowl of tiramisu for just 35k IDR. That was delicious, original and inexpensive. After a tasty dessert, I headed back to the hostel and hit the bed.

To be Continued...