Ijen Crater | Blue Fire | Java Island

CONTINUED FROM HERE: Bali to Java via Gilimanuk

Backpacking Indonesia: Day 009 (22 -April-2025)

Devil’s gold

Around 12:30AM, everyone who had booked the tour with the hostel were ready to leave. We assembled at the main area. Around 15 of us boarded three Toyota vehicles and drove to Mt. Ijen. Stanely had left a bit early on his rented scooter. 

At the base of the hill, we stopped at a local shop for trek briefing. We met our guides there. They called themselves Tom and Jerry. This would help us identify the team because there were a lot of people trekking that night. At the shop, we were provided gas masks and head torches. We were asked to rent glasses too which most of us declined. We had already paid a heavy amount for the trek and it was stupid of them to ask us to rent those glasses. The entry fee for the trek is almost 250K for foreigners. The hostel charged 350K including transport, guides and breakfast. Which I thought was a good deal. I had also paid 50K for the medical receipt. So the total amount paid for this trek was 400K IDR.

The local shops loot the tourists here. Not only are there high prices for beverages and food but one has to pay 5K for using the toilets. At the shack I spoke to some of my hostel mates. There was a friendly guy from Barcelona and a Chinese girl who mostly kept quiet. I chose to do the same. I think I am bored of the usual conversations about travels etc. Unless people have something interesting to talk about, I avoid speaking. I have no interest for futile conversations anymore about “where all I have been” and “What all I have done”. 

We began our trek around 2:15 AM. It was a 5km trek to the crater and then the same route back. There were guards at the entry gate. But, no one asked for the medical certificate or tickets as we were with a trekking group. The trail was crowded. The guide told me that the trek was limited to 100 people per day. But that clearly wasn't the case. There were at least 500-600 people there that night, if not more. One could see an array of flash lights move along the trail. 

It was not very cold and as we began walking, it felt warmer and I had to remove the light jacket I was wearing. After an ascent of 4km, we had a descent of 1km to the crater. This is was a bit challenging as there were loose rocks. Without a flash light it is difficult to trek here at night. 

Along the way, we saw local miners carrying sulphur. The bright yellow colour of sulphur was very attractive, however the pungent smell made me feel uncomfortable. As we got close to our destination, smoke from the burning sulphur filled our eyes - with or without glasses. If I removed the gas mask for a bit as it was suffocating, the smoke would fill my lung up and there was a burning sensation all through. It was actually very scary. With my eyes welled up, wind pipe and lung burning, I wondered how long I could stay there.

The beautiful blue fire, like a waterfall in flames, was visible behind the crowd and the clearing smoke. I walked close to the blue fire and managed to get some pictures clicked. It was a spectacular sight. I had not researched anything about this place and therefore the sight took me by surprise. I was thrilled. The blue fire is caused due to the combustion of sulphur escaping through the cracks.

We then walked to the Ijen crater lake which was fuming. Locals had setup a small souvenir store nearby. They had made art work using solidified sulphur. They looked attractive. Even the local miners tried to sell small pieces of sulphur to us. I felt tempted to carry one back but I refrained from doing so. I am glad I did that as the pungent smell that did not leave my clothes for several days would have then filled my bag and later, my house. 

We climbed up to the ridge and got a panoramic view of the place. It was spectacular. 

Along the way, we met more local miners walking up the mountain with around 70-80 kg of sulphur stored in two baskets, tied on either side of a wooden pole, resting on their shoulders. Trekkers who tried to carry the basket, struggled to even lift it from the ground, let alone place it on their shoulders. Our guide told me that the sulphur mining was owned by a private company who sold the material to a Chinese company. 

Escaping volcanic gases are channeled through a network of ceramic pipes, which results in condensation of molten sulphur. The sulphur which is deep red in its molten form, pours slowly from the ends of the pipes and pools on to the ground, turning yellow as it cools. 

Miners use their hands to chip away the solid sulphur, also known as Devil’s gold and fill them into baskets. They are then manually carried. Without any protection or safety measures, with themselves exposed to the toxic fumes, these local miners carry the heavy load of Devil’s gold up the crater for about 500 meters and then 4km down the mountain for weighing. 

Starting at night, the miners make two or three trips before sunrise. Overtime, these miners are known to experience respiratory issues and other health problems as they are constantly exposed to toxic fumes. All this risk is taken for just 1500 IDR per kilogram of sulphur. 

At the ridge of the crater, I met Stanley. He told me that he had arrived at the gate and was sent back to get his medical certificate done. He had to ride back for another hour, to the nearest clinic. 

The descent was obviously easy. For those who could not walk, there were locals offering a ride on their hand-pulled rickshaw. 

At the base of the mountain, villagers had gathered by now to sell the local fruits. Due to the fertile land around the volcano, the fruits were humungous in size and tasted extremely delicious. I packed some mangosteen for myself. They were absolutely delicious. 

Back at the hotel, I tried to get ride of the pungent smell from my clothes and my body. Nothing would help. An elaborate breakfast waited for us a the hostel. They served us some Kerala parota, Tofu in Indian gravy, egg and fruits. 

I got ready and checked out at 10AM. I played with Pitte for some time before heading to the railway station. The train arrived on time as usual. I was impressed by the railway stations and the trains here. They are sophisticated and neat. 

It was a 4 hour long journey. I reached Probolinggo by evening and walked around 2km to my guest house. I had booked my stay at Putri’s nephew, Franco's house. Franco wasn't home when I reached. His wife Megha who was feeding her son Sky, left the work aside and attending me a the entrance and got me checked in. There was no one staying there except me. It was more of a guest house than hostel. I had the entire dorm for myself. 

I freshen up and walked to a nice cafe for dinner. On my way back, I came across another nice cafe and decided to have dessert there. The place also sold E-cigarette cartridges of different flavour. Some youngsters were hanging out there. There was good music playing on the television - mostly Indonesian rock. I sat there for a while soaking in the good vibes that this place seemed to emanate. 

I returned back home and decided to take a nap till 1:30AM. That was when my trip to Mount Bromo would begin. I was excited about this journey. 

To Be Continued...