Denpasar

CONTINUED FROM HERE: Gili Trawangan Island

Backpacking Indonesia: Day 007 (20 -April-2025)

Acintya

After breakfast, I bid farewell to Michael and headed back to Bali on a ferry. The shuttle service that I had booked dropped me at a circle from where it was easy to take a Grab taxi to my hostel in Denpasar. Getting around in Indonesia is so easy, thanks to Grab bikes and cars. An impressive tableau of lord Rama, hanuman and monkeys holding rocks to build Rama Sethuve (the bridge to Lanka) was at the centre of the circle where I was dropped off. 

My hostel (Wiajaya Hostel) was in the outskirts of Denpasar, in a residential area. I checked in, freshened up and stepped out again to get some dollars exchanged. It was a long walk. From there, I took a Grab bike to the city centre. 

At Agung Jagatnatha temple, as I approached the entrance, a man came running towards me, offering to guide me in. He helped me tie a Sarong which was placed in a basket outside the temple. I had to rent it for 20K IDR. He said, I could pay him whatever I felt like. This is the first and the only temple I entered in Bali. Inside, I kept looking for the main shrine and an idol but he pointed at a pillar and said - “That’s  the main God - Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva. It took me a while to realise that the pillar was indeed their main shrine. On top of the pillar was a gold coated human-like figure with flames around him - Lord Acintya. 

He showed me various shelters around the temple, built for designated tasks like playing music during pooja, for prayers etc. There were sculptures of Yeli, Ganesha, Hanuman and other Hindu gods and goddesses. On a wall there were carvings of the scenes from Ramayana. 

The word “Acintya” means “inconceivable” or ‘Unimaginable” in Sanskrit. I did some reading and learnt that Acintya is the supreme God in Bali. He is considered equivalent to Brahman - the ultimate reality in Hinduism and is the origin of all gods and goddesses. Acintya is also known as Sang Hyang Tunggal meaning “The Divine Oneness”.  

Outside the temple, at a park, old men had gathered playing chess. It was a Sunday and most shops were closed. I decided to head to Badung Market where I ate a sweet dish called mini Terang Bulan. I also had Avocado smoothie made from humungous Avocados from Timor. 

As the market was still being setup, I walked to a neighbouring lane and saw a place selling street food called Tippet Tahu. Upon searching on the internet, I found out that it was a vegetarian dish. So, I asked the lady to make me a Tippet Tahu. I told her that I was a vegetarian. She made sure to remove the shrimp chips from it while serving. The dish was delicious - Fried tofu, rice cakes and sprouts dipped in sweet-tasty peanut sauce. 

Back at the market, people had begun to gather. Some kids dressed as Barong and playing music walked from stall to stall, asking for donation. There was a section for kids where easels with a sketch were placed. Kids could rent colours to paint on them. Parents sat next to the children encouraging them as they randomly applied colours on the paper. It was reassuring to see the importance Indonesians gave for art. At one end of the courtyard, in front of the market, a man and a woman were singing Indonesian songs. Several stalls setup at the main area sold clothes and food. As the sun began to set, more and more locals began to assemble. 

I walked back to the hostel. The hostel is run by a family. The lady of the house is a muslim woman named Putri. The word "Putri" in Sanskrit means daughter. It is interesting to note that many here, irrespective of their religion, had Indian/Hindu names. 

Putri is a jovial person, always smiling and happy to strike a conversation with the travellers. Putri hails from Java island. So, when I told her that I was going there next, she was delighted and gave me all the necessary information. She gave me the phone numbers and details of the hostels or home stays in most of the towns I was planning to visit. She told me that her nephew could help me visit Mount Bromo and gave me his contact details. She even helped me with the details on the bus ride to Gilimanuk. I am so glad that I chose to stay there and thus was able to meet her. 

At the common area, I met a Pakistani gentleman who was exploring Indonesia for a few days before a conference in Singapore. We spoke a bit about our work and travels. While I had quit corporate and begun teaching, he had quit his job as a professor and begun working as a developer. He told me that his mother advised him to switch jobs to earn more. He was probably around my age, married and a father a few children. 

I also spoke to a traveller from Hong Kong. He was probably in his 60s and was traveling solo. He had interesting stories to tell me about his travels in South America and Antarctica. He had visited India in the year 1987. I enjoyed talking to him. 

The houses in the area were getting ready for the major festival called Galungan - A sacred festival that celebrates the victory of Dharma (Righteousness) over Adharma (Unjust/Immoral). They were hoisting Penjor - a tall bamboo pole decorated with tender coconut leaves in front of their house. And here I was, about to leave Bali as it is beginning a celebration. But, I was excited about the adventure that I was about to embark upon. However, the biggest thing that was occupying my mind at that moment was  - "How to get to the far west of Bali and then cross the island?" When you have no clue of how things will work out, it's a lot of fun. Along with the slight intentional nervousness was a strong sense of exploration. Until now, it was a relaxed holiday. Now, the real backpacking would begin. 

To be Continued....