CONTINUED FROM HERE: Backpacking Indonesia
Backpacking Indonesia: Day 002 (15-April-2025)
An Introduction to Bali
I woke up at around 8AM. The hostel dorm is very spacious with lots of light coming through the main door. I have never been in such a spacious and lit hostel dorm before. The garden around the swimming pool is just beautiful.
In one corner of the garden, there are sculptures of an old man and a woman holding fruits, flowers and incense sticks. They were dressed in yellow coloured sarong. When asked, the lady of the house told me that they were holy spirits who are worshipped and considered as the guardians. This is something similar to the custom in my hometown and many other places in India. We call these holy spirits as Bootha or Daiva.
The house also had a shrine within. The lady, dressed in traditional attire, placed some offerings in a plantain leaf. A similar offering is also placed in front of every house and shop. This is called Canang Sari and it is an offering placed as a token of gratitude to the gods. Many houses have a Ganesha idol at the entrance. Some houses look like temples themselves. The tiled roofs of the houses reminded me of my hometown Mangalore.
Back in the common area, I opted for pancakes and Bali Coffee for breakfast. While I waited for the food to arrive, I sketched the previous day’s highlights on my journal. After breakfast, I got ready, refilled my water bottle for 2K IDR at the hostel kitchen and left to explore the town.
I walked along the Main Street which was filled with shops selling almost identical items - Cloths, Jewellery, bags, caps etc. After a point, there was nothing new to see in them. Moreover, there were so many vehicles on the road. Almost everyone owns a two-wheeler here.
Along my way, I came across a temple called Pura Dalem Kahyangan. One cannot enter these temples without a Sarong. So, I sat outside and sketched the elaborately designed exteriors of the temple.
Many people would stop me and ask if I were Indian. Upon listening to an affirmative answer, they would immediately ask me - “Hindu?", when I nod, they would be very happy and tell me that they too are Hindu. Bali is the only island of Indonesia that has a majority of Hindu population. The rest are mostly Islamic. During the 5th and 6th century, traders and people migrated to Bali, mostly from India, bringing with them the Hindu and Buddhist beliefs. Later, in the 14th Century, the Majapahit Empire of Java was crucial in introducing its version of Hinduism and Buddhism.
During the decline of Majapahit empire and take over by Dumak sultanate in Java, many of the artists, priests and intellectuals found a new home in Bali, further enriching its cultural landscape. The Hinduism here has a very different feel to it - it is mainly an amalgam of Hindu and Buddhist traditions and rituals.
Tired that I was - not due to the walk, but due to the humid weather, I walked to Veganlicious that serves delicious vegan smoothie bowls. While waiting for my tropical smoothie bowl, I played with the kitten that was lazily sleeping on the sofa.
After a refreshing meal, I walked to the beach. It was almost empty. There were shacks selling beer and other basic food items. Sun loungers with an umbrella over it were placed in front of each shack, but very few were occupied.
I took the narrow alley that I had taken the previous night and returned back to the hostel. After a siesta, I headed out again - this time to Tanah Lot to watch the sunset. I decided to take a Grab bike, as it was cheaper.
The roads of Bali are narrow and the traffic horrendous. But the bikes are always the best option to travel around here. When the roads are full, they ride on the sidewalk. This is not very different from India but here everyone does it. My competent Grab driver rode the scooter on the narrow sidewalk and took us past the traffic jams very easily and in an hour, we were at the destination.
The temple entry ticket is 75K IDR. The temple itself is beautiful, located on top of a small rock, not very far from the shore. Visitors are not allowed to enter the temple or even climb up the rock now. People queued up to take the holy water from a natural spring flowing from a cave below. Priests had assembled there to put a tilak (made from raw rice) on the forehead and place a frangipani flower on the ear before demanding some cash. I was told that one could step up to the ramp to view the temple from a distance only if we would undergo the ritual of flower and tilak. It was purely a way of making money. There was no use going and viewing the temple from that ramp as it was hardly 20 steps further from the natural spring. So, I ditched the ritual. No matter where you go, people are making money in the name of God and religion. The act of placing a flower on the ear reminded me of a famous Kannada expression - Kivi mele hoo. This expression is used to indicate that someone is trying to cheat or fool you by placing a flower on your ear. This practice is common in India too - placing a flower on the ear. I now realise the origin of this expression and its satirical commentary on our religious practices of a priest fooling the devotees. Unfortunately, people are getting fooled even today in great numbers.
The Grab ride price to return had doubled by late evening. However, it is never difficult to find a ride. This driver was a talkative one. Like the auto drivers in Bangalore, he asked me if I would be willing to pay him some extra money as this was a long distance trip. I asked him to stop the scooter if he does not want to take me for the agreed price. He immediately changed the tone and said - “If only you wish, you can pay me a little extra.” I did not respond to it. The driver was efficient though. To avoid the traffic, he took me on shortcuts. Thanks to him, I passed through Canggu beach and Seminyak. While Canggu looked deserted and Seminyak very fancy and crowded, I was happy to have chosen to stay in Legian.
Along the way, the driver stopped at a Grab kiosk to replace the battery of his scooter. He told me that it was offered for free from the company. At the end of the trip, I did pay him some extra money and he was delighted.
I had taken the ride to an electronic store. I had forgotten to carry a cable to charge my power bank. I found one in the store and walked back to the hostel. After freshening up, I headed back to Fat Buddha Legian. Today, the band was playing hard rock from the 70s and 80s. The atmosphere was as lively as ever. The lead singer was dressed in tight pants, an printed shirt and a tall hat that sat over his long silky hairs. Thus, another incredible day came to an end.
To be Continued...
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