Around Ubud

CONTINUED FROM HERE: Ubud

Backpacking Indonesia: Day 004(17-April-2025)

Me and my type!

On this day, I had planned to rent a scooter and explore the places around Ubud. Michael did not want to sit on a scooter for so long therefore, he did not want to join me. I had an early breakfast at the hostel and rented a scooter from them. I filled petrol from a near-by petrol station. Since I had forgotten my wet clothes for the waterfall, I headed back to the hostel to collect them. It was then that I met an Indian traveller (Awaiz) who had just reached the hostel. 

Awaiz told me that he had spent two days doing nothing at Kuta. He had taken a grab bike that morning to Ubud and was waiting to check in when he saw me. When he heard that I was planning on exploring the neighbourhood he asked me if he could join. I was fine with that, so I asked the hostel incharge for another helmet and we took off immediately. 

Awaiz happens to be from Chikkamagalur. He speaks Kannada as well. His wife, who works as a ground staff for an airline, was to arrive in two days. He had planned to come early and explore the place before joining his wife. They were newly wed. We spoke a bit about the current political scenario in India and Hindu-Muslim relationship in the country. Since Awaiz was also around my age, we discussed how things were different when we were growing up. But after a point, I did not want to discuss Indian politics or religion. I have come this far to enjoy the beauty of Bali and not indulge in concerns of home. So, we ended the conversation and began to enjoy the ride and the moment we were in. 

The google maps show crazy routes in Bali when you set it up to bike options. These include, narrow concrete paths between fields. It was a bit scary in the beginning but fun later on. On our way, a local slowed down his scooter to talk to me. He asked me if I were a Hindu. Though I do not believe in such classifications anymore, I did not want to lecture a stranger. Having been born in a Hindu family and being raised as a Hindu for most of my life, I don’t think I can deny it entirely, despite my evolved thoughts. So, I nodded and he was happy and told me that he too was a Hindu. He asked us if we were heading to Leke Leke waterfall. I had not heard of it before but since he had mentioned it, we decided to go there first. 

On our way, we stopped at a small store to have some tender coconut which was so huge that it  contained water equivalent to 3 or 4 small coconuts found in Bangalore. And they cost not more than 10-20K IDR, which is 50-100Rs. 

We parked our scooters at Leke Leke waterfall and bought the entry tickets. I changed my clothes and we walked down to the waterfall. With very few people around, this place looked untouched. I got down to the pool. After a refreshing bath, we headed back.

Awaiz wanted to try the swing. So, he did that. From here, we headed towards Ulun Dane Beratan temple. We parked our scooter, bought entry tickets and entered the premises. The Temple is located by the lake Dana Beratan surrounded by hills that were partially covered in clouds that day. The view was spectacular. There were a lot of tourists there. The impressive roof towers of the temples are made of coconut coir. 

Next stop - Sekumpul waterfall. On the way though, as I was very hungry, we stopped at a local restaurant. This was a food joint run by a muslim family - an old man, a young girl and a young boy. Awaiz seemed happy. He looked at the girl in hijab at the counter and said - “Salaam Waleekum Sister”. She responded and then he decided to take the initiative to order food. But the commonality had ended there. She could not understand a single word of English with clarity. She giggled. I, told Awaiz that I would order my food. I quickly showed her my needs on google translate and she got a plate and put in all the vegetarian food she had - Rice, boiled vegetables, fried tempeh. I had an omelette as well because it is extremely difficult to find pure vegetarian food in non-tourist areas. 

The old man, though did not speak our language, was curious to talk to us. He came and sat next to me hoping to make some conversation. He asked me where I was from, I said - “ India”. He nodded and replied - “Pakistan?”. I smiled and said - “No, India”. Then he smiled back and said - “Pakistan, Hindustan, Bangladesh”.  We all smiled. He looked at Awaiz who had a long beard without a moustache and told - "He looks like he is from Saudi Arabia". 

Awaiz asked him - “Do you know Shahrukh Khan?”. Some Indonesians do know Bollywood stars but this old man did not. He returned a blank look. He laughed as he repeated the name of the star. The food was good. While leaving, Awaiz handed a 20K IDR tip to the girl. She was delighted. She jumped with excitement. 

Everyone in this world is busy fragmenting themselves into communities and groups. Hindus are happy to see another Hindu and the Muslims feel a strong bond with perfect strangers

belonging to their religion.  So is the case with other religions or people who follow a certain ideology or political view or philosophy. Intellectuals want to mingle with their kind and spiritual leaders have a following of their own. People want to find those belonging to their clan and be happy in that illusion of togetherness. For once, if every individual in this world can abandon all the borrowed philosophies and can respect the very fact that we own a brain and a mind of our own, with which, we can arrive at our own philosophy of life and live as per it, without abiding to any doctrine, then, I believe, this world might be a bearable place to live. 

And this was also a lesson to me. I had never before encounter a situation where so many people would ask me about my religion. For those casually enquiring about my belief system, I would give long explanations of what I stand for. But how to respond to common people? I had never thought of that. So, I guess, I shall henceforth respond as per my belief - "No religion". 

We followed the google maps that showed a dangerous road along a dense deserted forest. But thanks to this route, we witnessed rural parts of Bali. The place reminded me of Malnad region of Karnataka. On the way to the waterfall, some boys stopped us saying it was an entry gate. They said that to visit the waterfall we had to trek for few hours and they had different trek plans with prices listed. Looking at the high prices (350K) for the trek, I realised that this was a scam and told them that we were not going to the waterfall but riding to Mount Batur. They allowed us to pass. At the waterfall entry gate, we bought the tickets for 20K IDR. The guides at the gate told us that all previous booths were just private trek organisers who mislead people and make them buy their package. We parked our bikes and began the walk.

The waterfall is beautiful. There was a small cafe overlooking the waterfall. So, I decided to have coffee there. Again, Awaiz gave detailed explanation of how he wanted his coffee to be light, and not very strong. I told them that I wanted a regular coffee. And when the coffees arrived, it was one regular coffee and one extra strong. 

"See, this is why you do not give too much details. They do not understand English. Let them do what they usually do.” I told Awaiz while exchanging the cups and taking the extra strong coffee. 

An old lady was making a sweet dish called Kue Lumpang. They are basically steamed rice cakes with Pandan leaf flavour. She added coconut palm sugar syrup and grated coconut over it. She also showed us the oven on which they are made. It is exactly same as Paddu or Gulli Appa we make in South India. She also made us try the roasted chocolate from her farm. 

As it was already late and we had 2H drive back to Ubud, I decided to head back. Originally, I had a few other places to see but we did not have time for that. Most places would close by 6 PM. On our way back, we stopped for some Gorengan - Fried banana snacks. 

At Pura Ulun Danu Batur temple in Kintamani, a major festival was in progress. The temple and the streets were decorated with artefacts made of coconut palm leaves. Locals, dressed in their traditional attire were heading to the temple. Loud music was playing on the streets and the traffic police were busy directing the vehicles. 

I took a short cut to town through a deserted route that passed through remote villages. I suppose not many tourists take this road since the locals would stop to look at us as we passed by. Kids would wave at us. We had to make a stop at a local shop for few minutes as it began to rain heavily. But thankfully, the rain stopped in some time and we continued our journey back to Ubud. 

I had previously planned to do a sunrise trek (Mt Batur) that same night. But after this long tiring journey, I did not feel like doing it. But Awaiz wanted to do it. So, I took him to the office where I had spoken about the trek last evening. He made his booking and then we headed back to the hostel. 

After I had freshened up, Michael and I planned our transport to Gili island. We booked it through the hostel.  After that, we went to the Lokal bar. The band on that day played one Pink Floyd song (Comfortably numb). I had Gado Gado - an Indonesian vegetarian dish made of steamed vegetables, fried tofu, fried tempeh and tasty peanut sauce called Pecel. 

Since live music at the Lokal bar ends at 10PM, we headed to another place called LOL that played hard rock. After spending some time there, we called it a day and headed back to the hostel. 

To be Continued...